Seldovia

Location/Climate: On south shore of Kachemak Bay, Kenai Peninsula, 20 water miles from Homer. 35"/yr. precip., 12°F–48°F.

Population: 334 (15.2 percent native, mainly Tanaina Indian).

Travel Attractions: Charming town, access to Kachemak Bay State Park and State Wilderness Park, access to Kenai Fjords.

Getting There: Scheduled water taxi, ferry, or air service from Homer; air service from Anchorage; charter air or boat service.

Information: Chamber of Commerce, PO Drawer F, Seldovia, AK 99663, 234-7525, www.xyz.net/~seldovia.

This charming town across Kachemak Bay from Homer is a nice choice for long stays or for overnight excursions. Long the site of a camp used by Eskimos, Athabascans, and Aleuts, the modern community was established in the 1870s when Russians began trapping and trading furs in the area. They built Saint Nicholas Orthodox Church in 1891. The church, which still stands today, is a fully restored highlight of the community and a designated National

Historic Site. Scandinavians arrived for the herring boom in the 1920s and stayed on to harvest halibut, salmon, and crab. Residents built a boardwalk in 1931 to facilitate travel through town—hence Seldovia’s identity as "the boardwalk town." Several buildings constructed on pilings complete the picturesque image.

The 1964 earthquake had a devastating effect on Seldovia. Coastlands sank as much as 4 feet, allowing tide waters to wash over the boardwalk and into buildings. The town was subsequently moved and then reconstructed in the same theme, though a portion of the original boardwalk may still be seen in the Seldovia Slough. Today the charm of the town is very much intact.

Seldovia is situated on small Seldovia Bay, a narrow intrusion into the southwestern extension of the Kenai Mountains. Indeed, 2,000-to 3,000-foot peaks rise all around, providing a marvelous backdrop. Kayaks and mountain bikes can be rented for explorations of the bay area. Several shops sell gifts and local arts, while the Seldovia Native Association Museum and office has heritage exhibits. A road heads east then south across the peninsula through a low gap, allowing access to the south shore and open waters of the Kennedy Entrance. Almost all of the land served by the road is native corporation land. You should inquire before exploring.

Where to Stay and Eat in Seldovia

Buzz Coffeehouse/Cafe, Main Street, across from Russian church, 234-7479. "Gourmet food with a local flavor," vegetarian dishes, espresso drinks, open 6 to 6 daily in summer.

Mad Fish Restaurant, Main Street at Fulmore, 234-7676. Enjoy local fresh seafood, burgers, steaks, wine, and beer. Open daily.

Seldovia’s Boardwalk Hotel, Boardwalk, (800) 238-7862, 234-7816. Private baths, harbor view deck. One night with a nature cruise and round-trip air transportation is $130.

Seldovia Rowing Club Bed & Breakfast, Historic Boardwalk, 234-7614. Sunset view, big decks, homey suites, charming and friendly keeper. My favorite place in town!